Inside the Blocking Process: How Does an Open Crown Become a Classic Cowboy Hat?
In the world of custom headwear, the "Open Crown" is a fascinating thing. When you receive a hat body from our factory, it usually comes as a rounded, uncreased "blank canvas."
Many first-time buyers ask: "How does this round hat turn into a western cowboy hat?" The answer lies in the most core and highly skilled step of hat-making: Blocking & Shaping.
Today, let's reveal how an open crown is transformed into a classic cowboy hat step by step in a hatter's hands.
Step 1: Know Your Canvas (The Open Crown)
The open crown hat bodies we ship have already been steam-blocked on aluminum or wooden blocks at the factory. It has the standard height, rounded dome, and a flat or slightly curled brim. Leaving the crown "open" is precisely so you or your clients can freely press the desired western crease based on personal preference or brand style.
Step 2: Awakening the Fibers (The Steam Process)
Felt (especially wool, rabbit, or beaver fur) has a natural "shape memory," and the medium to awaken it is high-temperature steam.
Hatters typically use a garment steamer or a boiling kettle to evenly steam the crown. When the felt fibers absorb the moisture and heat, they become incredibly soft and pliable. At this point, it's ready to be reshaped.
Step 3: Creating the Crease
This is the step that best tests a hatter's skill. Using their hands, the hatter pinches the top of the crown into classic creases. There are a few common western styles:
Cattleman: The most classic style, featuring a central longitudinal dent with two side dents.
Teardrop: Pinched at the front, rounded at the back, offering a strong vintage feel.
Gambler: A flat top design with a circular dent on top.
Under the action of steam and hand pressure, the soft crown is given a new soul.
Step 4: Shaping the Brim
Not only does the crown need shaping, but the brim does too. The hatter curls the brim edge upwards, usually curving up on the sides (for wind and rain protection) and dipping slightly front and back. If the hat body has a built-in wire (Wired Brim), the hatter can easily shape the brim into the client's perfect curve, and it will hold that shape for a long time.
Step 5: Cooling & Setting
Once the crease and brim are shaped, don't wear it just yet. The hat needs to sit in a cool, ventilated place to cool down. As the felt dries, the internal structure of the fibers locks back into place. When it's completely dry, a classic cowboy hat with a perfect, crisp silhouette is born!
Advice for Brands:
In our daily supply, we often meet clients who want us to "press the creases before shipping." However, many high-end custom brands and independent milliners actually prefer our Open Crown hat bodies. This is because it allows them to offer the blocking step as a "value-added service" to their own clients, or let the end consumer participate in pinching the crease themselves—this custom experience is priceless.
If you want to test the blocking results of our hat bodies, feel free to request samples. You can try it at home with a steam iron or a hot kettle, and see how "obedient" our felt is in your hands.
Learn about our products
View more information